If you are anything like us, applying your favorite skincare products in the morning and evening brings you delight and relaxation. You will not be putting them down anytime soon. Beyond the sensory benefits, it is a welcome routine that helps you start and end the day, but we can not help but wonder what is going on with each slather and mist. Every product, from SPF to eye cream, is essential to reaching our skincare objectives, but when we apply our favorite formulae, what really happens to them?
It is possible that you have read that 60% of skincare products enter your bloodstream and take just 26 seconds to do so. Still, these are only a few of the frequently quoted figures that have become more and more well-known recently, even though they lack scientific validation.
We sought the advice of skincare specialists, dermatologists, and cosmetic chemists in order to finally clear the air and end misconceptions. Read on for their explanations of the workings of the skin and what actually happens after using skincare products.
What Role Does the Skin Play?
Knowing how the skin functions is the first step towards understanding what happens to our skincare once it is applied. According to Kristina Kitsos, RN, a cosmetic nurse in Beverly Hills, California, skin serves as our “protective barrier against hazardous foreign elements in the environment” and is our largest multipurpose organ.
There are three layers to the skin: The epidermis, also referred to as the waterproof barrier, is located at the top. Not to be overlooked is the stratum corneum, which is located within the epidermis and is composed of “dead skin cells organized like tiles on a roof, overlaying one another and cemented together with fatty acids,” according to Kitsos. The middle layer of skin, or dermis, is home to sweat glands, blood vessels, hair follicles, collagen, elastin, and connective tissue. Lastly, the hypodermis, or deepest layer of the skin, is the lowest layer of the skin and is made up of connective tissue and fat.
How Do Skincare Products Get Absorbed by the Skin?
Remembering that skin is not a sponge is crucial when discussing skincare products. The majority of topical skincare treatments just address the skin’s surface, according to BeautyStat CEO and cosmetic chemist Ron Robinson. “The blood supply is located in the dermis, yet most products never even reach there.”
If you are wondering why your skincare seems like it is absorbing, air-drying is the reason behind that sinking-in feeling you get after using skincare products. Dermatologists claim that most substances begin to evaporate as soon as they are applied.
“Skincare penetration” refers to an ingredient’s passage through the stratum corneum and into the skin’s deeper layers, whereas “absorption” denotes something is entry into the bloodstream. “The purpose of skincare is penetration so that the active ingredients stay in the targeted skin layer for optimum efficacy, hydrating and fortifying the skin,” adds Kitsos.
However, because of your stratum corneum, this becomes more difficult. Because the barrier of ceramides, sebum, and fatty acids is water-repellent, you can bathe without being drenched. The issue is that since it is the best way to dissolve and dilute active chemicals, skincare products tend to contain a lot of water.
Let us introduce penetration enhancers: substances such as certain alcohols or fatty acids (like oleic and linoleic acid) that increase the likelihood of another substance penetrating the skin. Consider it as if you were inviting a friend to a party they are not invited to. “The skin’s natural barrier resistance is reduced by these substances, which pierce the skin. They let other substances in with them by doing this, claims Kisos. “Transdermal drugs often contain penetration enhancers, but they are also widely found in skincare and cosmetic items.”1.
This penetrative process may also be impacted by other variables. Compared to thick creams or moisturizers, serums are “extremely liquidy and can readily penetrate the skin delivering the ingredient efficiently,” says Acaderma creator and cosmetic chemist Shuting Hu, PhD. Conversely, because creams usually contain an occlusive substance (such as petrolatum or waxes), they will remain on top of the epidermis for a longer period of time.
Additionally, molecular size matters. Smaller molecular sizes allow ingredients like hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, and vitamin E to easily penetrate the epidermis.23 However, some ingredients end up sitting on the skin’s surface due to their bigger molecular sizes, which prevents them from penetrating the skin,” explains Hu. Elixirs including oils, silicones, and wax are typical examples. Not that these non-penetrative chemicals are not helpful; in fact, they can improve the texture of your outer skin by sealing the skin and providing a moisturizing impact.
This is where things become a little risky. Certain substances used in cosmetics are able to enter the lymphatic and circulatory systems. According to Dr. Sheilagh Maguiness, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and co-founder of Stryke Club, in order for molecules to accomplish this feat, they must be incredibly small and contain components that are both hydrophilic (found in water) and hydrophobic (found in oil) to maximize their solubility. Pregnant women should refrain from using retinol completely because it is a bloodstream-entering component and is listed on California’s Prop 65 for possible “reproductive toxicity.”
Avobenzone and oxybenzone, two chemicals present in chemical sunscreens, have also been shown to enter straight into the bloodstream. Other chemicals, including as parabens and phthalates, are dispersed throughout the body and mimic hormones.456 Although it is unclear how long-term chemical exposure from cosmetics can affect health, this underscores the need of clean beauty.
Is Skin Thickness Important?
Indeed, and the place also important. Our bodies have different skin thicknesses, which affect how permeable an item or product is. According to Maguiness, “there is generally more potential for penetration the thinner the skin.”
The eyelids, regions with sweat glands or hair follicles, and the palms of your hands or soles of your feet are some thinner and thicker locations, respectively. The integrity of the skin barrier is weakened in those with “skin diseases like atopic dermatitis, which increases the possibility of items actually going into their circulation,” according to Maguiness.
Can Items Truly Enter Our Bloodstream?
Yes and no, it is the truth. According to Kitsos, “research has indicated that a few of these microscopic chemical components used in skincare products, particularly sunscreen, are detected in the bloodstreams of certain individuals.”Six However, this still does not excuse the scare tactics and false information about the risks associated with regular skincare application. According to Hu, “the most intense compounds would require years of constant administration at extraordinarily high doses” in order for them to penetrate the skin and reach the bloodstream.
Put another way, you can be secure in the knowledge that your epidermis and dermis layers are excellent at their jobs and that it is quite improbable that your favorite skincare products would ever enter your bloodstream.
